By India is a nation where many cultures reside, each culture almost has its own corner in our country. In the eastern part of Bengal, lies such a corner that will take you to the backstreets of China. The Tangra region of Kolkata is home to India’s sole Chinese colony. The Old China Market is located in the Tiretta Bazaar in central Kolkata, near Lalbazar. This region, known as Chinatown, had attracted a large number of ethnic Chinese inhabitants. Around 5000 Chinese Indian nationals still remain in the town, practicing Chinese customs and traditions.
History of Tiretta Bazaar
The Chinese community in Kolkata dates back to the 18th Century when Warren Hastings served as Governor-General and was the first member of the community to arrive in the city. They are an intrinsic part of the city’s rich history and have played a major role in shaping its food culture over the years.
When you visit Kolkata’s infamous ‘Chinatown’, Tiretti Bazaar, and Tangra area, you will come across several Chinese clubs and churches. Promoting the cultural components of the Chinese community is the aim of these establishments. The ‘church’ tag came from the British colonial administration. These temples also serve as ‘clubs’ – meeting points for people to gather in the evenings, or to pray, socialize, and also to host festivals.
The Toong On Church, a two-story red colonial edifice in Chhatawalla Gali, is adjacent. It was built in 1924 and originally housed Kolkata’s first Chinese restaurant, the famed Nanking, which became a magnet for seeing celebrities. The 108-year-old Sea Ip Church is just a few minutes walk away. Migrants from four counties in China’s Guangdong Province founded this in 1905.
The Hakka Chinese community moved to this region of Kolkata with the opening of a Chinese-run tannery in Tangra in 1901. Around the period of World War 2, in the 1930s and 1940s, China Town had a major influx of refugees from South China.
People in the region will occasionally pore over a Chinese newspaper at a club, restaurant, or Chinese grocery shop. This is India’s Overseas Chinese Commerce, which is likely the country’s final Chinese language daily. Once upon a time, it was entirely handwritten, with beautiful calligraphy characters.
Things to do in Kolkata’s Chinatown
Sei Vui
Sei Vui is situated in a historic structure that currently serves as a community social club. The warm, inviting decor evokes an old-school Chinese restaurant in India. Chef Peter Tseng is presently the executive chef of Soy Soi, an upmarket Pan-Asian restaurant chain with locations in Chennai and Gurgaon.
Dragon Dance
The Chinese New Year is generally celebrated in February when lion and dragon groups visit homes to give prayers and good wishes. In addition, the locals put on lively lion dance, dragon dance, and cultural presentations. Drums and cymbals ring out, signaling the start of something new. The festivities begin many days before New Year’s Day. They take place at Tangra as well as Tiretta Bazaar.
Chinese Temples
One can spot many exquisite Chinese temples in Kolkata, particularly in the Tiretta Bazaar area. Many of these temples are referred to be churches, however, these places of worship follow the traditional Chinese faith. Sea Ip Church, Toong On Church, Sea Voi Yune Leong Futh Church, Gee Hing Church, Choong YeeThong Church, and Nam Soon Church are some of Kolkata’s most well-known Chinese temples. Tangra also has India’s first Chinese Kali temple, which provides noodles as prasad.
A stroll through Chinatown in Kolkata is a wonderfully fascinating and authentic experience. One can learn to play mahjong, shop for handcrafted Chinese shoes, and stock up on bamboo steamers and exotic ingredients for your kitchen.
Also follow India Chalk on Instagram for more amazing travel content. You can share your travel story with us. Reach out to us on email at contact[at]ndiachalk[dot]com. This blog is curated by India Chalk and written by Aryaki Mishra.
